Tomatoes: Tips on growing, caring for and harvesting - My beautiful garden
Origin
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) belong to the nightshade family (Solanaceae) and originally come from Central and South America. For the indigenous peoples of Latin America, this fruit vegetable was a staple food. The first tomatoes arrived in Europe as early as the 16th century, where they were initially cultivated primarily as ornamental plants. Higher-yielding varieties were not bred until the beginning of the 20th century. From then on, tomatoes became established as a fruit vegetable in our regions as well. Today, they are cultivated in almost every country in the world – and are equally loved by amateur and professional gardeners
Appearance and Growth
- Indeterminate tomatoes (long main stem that needs to be tied up),
- Bush or balcony tomatoes (bushy growth and limited height growth),
- Beefsteak tomatoes (very large, ribbed fruits with five to ten chambers) and
- Cherry or cocktail tomatoes (small, cherry- or pear-shaped fruits).
Tomatoes are characterized by their yellow flowers and slightly hairy leaves and shoots.
Location and Soil
Tomatoes thrive in well-loosened, humus-rich, and nutrient-rich soil. Three to five liters of compost per square meter – spread after soil preparation – ensure a basic supply of nutrients and improve the humus content of the soil. The plants are sensitive to heavy soils where waterlogging can easily occur. A sunny, warm, and sheltered location is ideal.
There are various ways to grow tomatoes: they thrive in containers and pots, in greenhouses , and outdoors. Growing them in pots is successful with dwarf balcony varieties such as 'Miniboy', which only reach about half a meter in height. The pots and containers should have a capacity of at least ten liters. Ensure good drainage. Growing tomatoes under a tomato house that is open on the sides is particularly recommended , as temperatures there never exceed 35 degrees Celsius, even in the height of summer. The plants can be trained upwards using strings or stakes.
Tomato greenhouses are available in many sizes at garden centers. With a little skill, you can also easily build one yourself using wooden slats and UV-resistant greenhouse film. Important: The open side must face away from the prevailing weather, so in our latitudes, it shouldn't face west. Completely enclosed greenhouses or special tomato covers for outdoor cultivation are not recommended as permanent rain protection: With fluctuating temperatures, condensation forms under the film, promoting fungal diseases. For this reason, tomatoes in greenhouses should also be ventilated daily.
A tomato greenhouse protects the delicate plants from rain.
Crop Rotation and Companion Planting
Tomatoes, being heavy feeders , take first place in crop rotation. They should be planted in a new bed every year. If the plants are always in the same spot, soil pests such as root nematodes and the pathogens of corky root disease can multiply rapidly. Low-growing, heat-loving herbs such as basil can be planted along the rows. Tomatoes are also good companion plants for other crops: it is believed that the scent of tomato leaves repels pests. Carrots, radishes , spinach, or cabbage thrive in their vicinity. Potatoes , peas, and fennel , on the other hand, are not recommended as companion plants . Potatoes, in particular, should be avoided at all costs, as the fungal pathogen of the dreaded potato disease late blight overwinters in them and infects tomato plants in the spring
Sowing tomatoes
Anyone who grows tomatoes will have frequently encountered the terms "organic seeds" or "F1" on seed packets. These terms indicate how the seeds were produced – a crucial point, especially for those growing their own food . Organic seeds are open-pollinated, heirloom seeds. The parent plants were traditionally selected over decades or even centuries. If you save the seeds from the harvested fruit and sow them again the following year, you will get tomatoes with the same characteristics, provided the plants haven't crossbred with other varieties.F1 seeds, on the other hand, are produced by seed breeders through a rather complex hybridization process. This allows them to selectively recombine the desired traits of the parent plants in the so-called F1 generation – the offspring – through crossbreeding. The seeds obtained from the crossbred parent varieties – the F1 generation – are sold and are particularly high-yielding. However, the plants are not genetically stable: if you collect their seeds and sow them again, the F2 generation differs greatly in its characteristics from the F1 generation.
Tomatoes should be started in pots; this can be done from the end of March.
After about three weeks, once the seedlings have developed their first two pairs of leaves, prick out the tomato plants and plant them individually in pots about ten centimeters in diameter. Water the young plants regularly and allow a short dry period just before planting out to stimulate root growth.
Planting Tomatoes
If you haven't started your own tomatoes from seed, you can buy seedlings of all common varieties from garden centers starting in spring, or order them from mail-order nurseries. More unusual varieties are usually only available as seeds. Many varieties are now also available as grafted plants. The advantage: Plants grafted onto a vigorous wild tomato rootstock produce up to 60 percent more fruit and are particularly suitable for growing on balconies , patios , or in greenhouses. The only disadvantage: The fruit tends to split, so the plants require a consistent supply of water and nutrients
Since tomatoes cannot tolerate frost, you should wait until after the Ice Saints ( mid-May ) before planting them outdoors . In an unheated greenhouse, an earlier planting date is of course no problem. Those who want an early harvest without a greenhouse can plant the seedlings outdoors in milder climates as early as the end of April and cover them with a plastic cover if there is a risk of frost at night. Remove the cover again first thing in the morning and make sure that the plastic cover has spacers and air holes. Absolutely avoid contact between the leaves and the plastic, as this increases the risk of fungal infection.
Plant the tomato seedlings so that the top of the root ball is covered with five centimeters of soil. This encourages the plant to develop additional roots.
Tomatoes are heavy feeders : before planting, fertilize the bed with composted manure and compost, working it well into the soil. A wide planting distance of at least 50 x 60 centimeters ensures good aeration. Water the tomatoes thoroughly immediately after planting. For the following days, the young plants should not receive any water to encourage further root growth. To give the tomato plants better support, plant them up to the lowest leaf node, so that the root base is covered with five to ten centimeters of soil. This encourages the plants to develop additional fine roots along the lower part of the stem, allowing them to absorb more nutrients. For grafted tomatoes, the root ball should just barely be visible!
With the exception of bush tomatoes, all tomatoes need a support structure . Spiral stakes made of stainless steel or aluminum are practical and easy to clean. Disinfect the stakes in spring with a gas torch or high-proof alcohol (methylated spirits) to kill harmful fungal spores from the previous year. It's best to insert the stakes into the soil at planting time and continuously twist the main shoots through the spirals to secure them.
Most tomato varieties need support. A spiral stake, for example, is suitable for this purpose.
Care
Once the roots are well established, you can water the tomato plants more sparingly. Since the plants develop a branched root system and can also absorb water well, you should water them when the leaves droop in the morning. Cherry tomatoes watered with seawater will remain smaller, but will contain more flavor compounds and valuable antioxidants. About four grams of sea salt per liter of rainwater is sufficient. It is important that the soil does not become too saline. Otherwise, nutrients such as calcium can no longer be absorbed. When watering tomatoes, the general rule is: never wait until the soil is completely dry. Otherwise, not only the fruits of thin-skinned varieties like 'Yellow Pearshaped' or 'Berner Rose' will easily split. Water tomatoes grown under cover regularly, and daily during hot periods. As long as the soil is still cool, use lukewarm water
The most important rule when watering: Water only in the soil area if possible.
To prevent fungal diseases like late blight and brown rot, water tomato plants only at the base and avoid wetting the leaves. Apply water directly to the root zone using a watering can or rose. Since it's almost impossible to avoid wetting the lower leaves, remove them as a precaution once the plants are strong enough. Regular pruning of the tomatoes also helps prevent the spread of brown rot.
Besides staking , pinching out the suckers (the shoots growing in the leaf axils) has proven particularly effective for tomatoes . With this important care measure during the growing season, most tomato varieties achieve their highest yield. The suckers that constantly emerge from the leaf axils must be continuously removed from the seedling stage until harvest, as soon as they are spotted. If left to grow, the plants will produce a lot of foliage but hardly any fruit. You should only pinch out the suckers by hand in dry weather, ideally in the morning. How much you need to pinch out depends on the variety: Cocktail tomatoes can be grown with multiple stems, and some bushy varieties don't need to be pruned at all. Also, the closer the plants are together, the more you need to prune. Tip: When looking at variety names, pay close attention to characteristics such as growth habit and spread.
In August, the growing tip is cut back to prevent new flower stalks from developing; their fruit would not ripen anyway. Alternatively, only the newly growing flower stalks can be removed, leaving the growing tip intact. During the growing season, individual leaves will turn yellow, starting from the bottom – this is normal. These should be cut off, but the healthy foliage should be left untouched until the end.
Overwintering tomatoes is generally not worthwhile. However, it's worth trying with well-cared-for bush tomatoes kept in pots on the balcony that are still healthy at the end of the season.
Harvesting and using tomatoes
Many people wonder whether green tomatoes are edible or poisonous . They do, in fact, contain the toxic alkaloid solanine, which diminishes as they ripen. Tomatoes are only harvested when they have fully developed their characteristic color. At this stage, the fruits contain not only vitamins B and C but also many healthy minerals. In open fields, the first tomatoes are ready for harvest at the end of July, while those in greenhouses are ready a month earlier. They are most flavorful when fully ripe. Before the first frost, cut off any remaining green tomatoes and allow them to ripen further by storing them indoors. Adding an apple will speed up the ripening process because fruit releases ethylene gas, which accelerates ripening. When storing tomatoes , never refrigerate them!
When it comes to using tomatoes, the possibilities are endless: they taste delicious raw in salads, cooked into sauces, or in soups. For sauces or chutneys, for example, tomatoes can simply be peeled . To preserve tomatoes , you can can them or make your own ketchup . Passata (strained tomatoes) is also easy to make at home. If you dry tomatoes , you can enjoy them long after harvesting, and if you ferment tomatoes , you get a flavorful snack that can also have a positive effect on gut health. Homemade tomato juice is also incredibly delicious and healthy – why not give this wonderful drink a try?
Variety Tips
Hardly any other vegetable boasts such a wide variety of varieties as tomatoes. When choosing a variety, taste is paramount, and this is primarily determined by the content of natural sugars and fruit acids. Besides personal preference, the intended use also plays an important role. Beefsteak tomatoes are usually low in fruit acid and harmonize well with other vegetables in the kitchen. Children especially love the small and sweet cherry tomatoes, which are also delicious in salads or steamed on bread. A change of variety may also be advisable for those with a tomato allergy . For outdoor cultivation from mid-May onwards, only varieties with high resistance to late blight are suitable. In addition to modern hybrid varieties and naturally resistant wild tomatoes , some heirloom varieties and newer organic cultivars also meet this requirement
Indeterminate tomato 'Banana Legs' (left) and beefsteak tomato (right)
Most varieties are indeterminate (vining) tomatoes . 'Hellfrucht' and the early 'Matina' maintain their top position on the list of the most popular tomato varieties. Other recommended indeterminate tomatoes include 'Harzfeuer', 'Meran', 'Planet', 'Sonata' (all F1 hybrids), and 'Goldene Königin' (yellow-fruited). 'Tica' is organically bred and produces a bountiful harvest in a small greenhouse. The yellow pear tomato 'Yellow Submarine', with its pear-shaped fruits weighing only 15 grams, wins the hearts of more than just children. 'Banana Legs' comes from North America and bears mild and sweet, pale yellow, low-juice fruits
Fleischtomaten haben fünf oder mehr Fruchtkammern. Die neuere Fleischtomate ‘Country Taste’ hat kleinere Früchte als üblich, dafür aber ein kernarmes Fruchtfleisch mit intensivem Tomatengeschmack. ‘Crimson Crush’ ist rot, hat ein Fruchtgewicht von bis zu 200 Gramm und ist widerstandsfähig gegen Braunfäule. Ochsenherz-Tomaten (‘Cuore di bue’, ‘Coeur de boeuf’) gibt es mit herzförmigen, glatten und stark gerippten Früchten. Die größten Exemplare können mehr als 500 Gramm wiegen. ‘Big Rainbow’ schmücken orange Streifen.
Süße und kleine Kirsch- und Cocktailtomaten: ‘Artisan Golden Bumble Bee’ ist gelb-orange gestreift, rund und fruchtig-süß. ‘Big Mama’ hat ein Fruchtgewicht bis 250 Gramm, ist kernarm, für Suppen, Pasta-Soßen und Tomatenpesto geeignet. ‘Chocolate Cherry’ ist eine Neuzüchtung mit schwarzroten, würzig-süßen Früchten und ideal für den Anbau im Freiland oder im Gewächshaus. Die Kirschtomate ‘Romello’ ist eine ertragreiche Snacktomate für Kästen und Pflanzkübel. ‘Golden Currant’, eine widerstandsfähige Wildtomate mit murmelgroßen Früchten, kann sowohl im Freiland als auch in großen Töpfen kultiviert werden. ‘Sakura’ trägt an jeder Traube bis zu 20 Früchte.
‘Chocolate Cherry’, eine schwarzrote Cocktailtomate
Buschtomaten wie ‘Dasher’ wachsen auch im Topf auf der Terrasse, Mini-Buschtomaten wie ‘Tumbling Tom Yellow’ passen sogar in Blumenampeln. ‘Rentita’ und ‘Balkonstar’ brauchen Sie nicht auszugeizen. ‘Evita Basket’ ist rot, klein und herzförmig und prädestiniert für Ampeln und Balkonkästen. ‘Early Sibirian’ ist eine sehr frühe Buschtomatensorte. Unverzichtbar in der italienischen Küche sind Flaschentomaten wie ‘San Marzano’. ‘Roma’ trägt feste, saftarme, eiförmige Früchte. Wenn Sie zum Beispiel gerne Tomaten grillen, ist diese Sorte gut geeignet. Neu in dieser Gruppe ist ‘Corianne’ mit ausgeprägt fruchtigem Geschmack.
Marzano-Tomaten eignen sich aufgrund ihres fruchtigen und kräftigen Aromas besonders für Soßen
Für getrocknete Tomaten eignet sich ‘De Berao’ besonders gut. Die Tomate ist mehlig, ertragreich und robust. Schwergewichte wie ‘Santa Lucia’ bringen bis zu 500 Gramm auf die Waage. Bio-Züchtungen wie ‘Primabella’ und ‘Primavera’ behaupten sich dagegen auf dem Feld wie im Beet.
Tomaten vermehren
Tomaten werden durch Aussaat vermehrt. Genaueres finden Sie unter dem Punkt "Aussaat" weiter oben.
Krankheiten und Schädlinge
Die recht hohe Krankheitsanfälligkeit von Tomaten bekommt man am besten durch Auswahl robuster Sorten und durch einen guten Bodenzustand in den Griff. Generell steigt die Anfälligkeit mit zunehmender Fruchtgröße.
By far the most dangerous tomato disease is late blight (Phytophthora). As mentioned, it is caused by a fungus. Its spores are spread over long distances by the wind and quickly cause infection on the moist leaf surface. High humidity and temperatures below 18 degrees Celsius (64 degrees Fahrenheit) also promote infestation. Once infected, the disease is almost impossible to stop. The symptoms appear on the leaves, shoots, and fruit. The tomatoes turn brown, harden inside, and become completely inedible. At the slightest sign of late blight, immediately remove the infected leaves. Instead of composting them, burn them. The most effective prevention is protection. If you don't have a greenhouse or tomato house, a translucent plastic sheet covering that keeps out the rain is also suitable. Twin-wall polycarbonate sheets or plastic tarpaulins can also help to combat the fungus.
Brown rot often occurs in high humidity. To prevent an infestation, you should only water the lower leaves.
The frequently observed curling of leaves is not necessarily a sign of disease. This is usually caused by either over-fertilization or a short-term lack of water. However, a yellowing along the leaf veins combined with leaf curling indicates a viral infection. A calcium deficiency manifests as blossom-end rot . In hot, dry weather, the fruit will appear sunken and brown at the blossom end. To counteract this, ensure consistent soil moisture. Occasionally, infestations of broad mites can also occur, recognizable by, among other things, deformed and bent leaves.
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